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Electronic rust proofing

jonx96

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#1
I was at the track a few weeks ago. Looking at a guys challenger and there was grease looking stuff under the hood of his car that dust and dirt was sticking to like crazy. I asked if his catch can broke open and oil went everywhere. He said no he had it sprayed for rust proofing to keep the car in good shape. I asked why he didn’t use electronic rust proofing and he’d never heard of it. So I thought I’d share this with you all in case you haven’t heard of it. I know from first hand experience this works. I had a 2012 Chrysler 200 that I did no rust proofing to and when I sold it this year the doors were getting rusty.
My brother bought a 2013 Dodge Avenger and he has 0 rust on that thing still.
I put this box on my truck yesterday and may buy a few more for the other vehicles. Especially your hellcat this would be a much better option than spraying it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079SSSHBK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
 


Piening2150

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#2
OP
jonx96

jonx96

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Thread Starter #3
Good luck. These have been around for ages. If they worked that well, everyone would have one (or they'd be standard equipment from the manufacturer). The theory is sound, But a car has too many parts that are isolated by rubber bushings, paint, etc for it to be really effective.
https://www.autotrader.ca/newsfeatures/20160524/goof-of-the-month-rust-protection-isnt-magic/
I’m just saying from experience it has worked on all the vehicles I have seen it on and not. Many dealers sell it with cars but for 400 to 500 dollars. They also offer a 10 year warranty with it and I live in the salt belt.
When I first had it demod it was said the spray stuff is only as good as the guy doing it.
 


vortecd

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#4
For the money seems like a better option then having it sprayed
 


Demoniccat

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Ag
Good luck. These have been around for ages. If they worked that well, everyone would have one (or they'd be standard equipment from the manufacturer). The theory is sound, But a car has too many parts that are isolated by rubber bushings, paint, etc for it to be really effective.
https://www.autotrader.ca/newsfeatures/20160524/goof-of-the-month-rust-protection-isnt-magic/
Agreed when a good mechanical bond is present it can be very effective. Case and point bare buried steel pipe used for infrastructure ie: buried natural gas pipe, water pipe etc have been using anodes for many years, be it Zinc bags, or now more commonly used Magnesium bars with a wire Cad welded to the pipe for conducting the induced protection voltage. Long haul piping many miles long utilize the type product shown in post but on steroids and at commercial grade with higher ampacity. The powered style are called Rectifiers, known as “Cathodic Protection” the term used in the industry, can actually work against you in certain circumstances, and actually instigate corrosion if the potential difference and metals touching are at a different levels on the Galvanic scale. The key take away here is mechanical bonding as Piening2150 indicated by many isolating points on a vehicle. This is exactly why non coated bare steel high pressure gas lines placed in service in the 50s can survive in wet soil. The pipe is typically of same material, and when it is not welded a coupling is used to join, and a Cad welded jumper wire is employed across the fitting. This is why isolated parts from negative chassis ground are used to get the 12 volts to electrical parts. Even when the metal is physically joined on cars the manufacturer sometimes runs a grounding bond wire knowing that rust between the parts can come into play. Hope this helps. Sorry for repeating from similar pervious posts, others may recall this analogy used. Or the good ol boat and hot water heater anode Protection. All the same premise.
 


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swatdocsc

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#6
They used to do that on ships.
 




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